Ken Albala

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Like me, you can probably remember the first time you tasted that slightly crisp yet chewy, airy wonder redolent of butter, offered at the start of a classic Indian meal. It awakens the senses, stimulates the appetite and opens the imagination for the meal to come. There is nothing like it in the Western canon and no technique there that will help you achieve that unforgettable texture and aroma. Fortunately, there is now a book to explain it all for the home cook.

 

Despite the intense interest in baking nowadays, few people have the knowledge or skills to tackle the wide array of Indian breads that are essential to Indian cuisine. Come to think of it, these breads would also make an excellent addition to any cook’s repertoire and in any context. This marvelous book goes way beyond the familiar naan and includes delicate paratha, fermented dosa, fried bhatura, stuffed and flavored breads, and so many exquisite sounding recipes that I dare anyone to resist running straight to the kitchen after reading it.

 

The instructions are clear and concise, beautifully illustrated with photographs of various steps. There are descriptions of the ingredients, the necessary tools and techniques as well as a whole array of condiments and sides to accompany the breads. Even the seasoned cook will make many new discoveries here. Of course the breads themselves draw from a tradition that is thousands of years old. They have been perfected by generations of hands plying the dough into perfect form after centuries of experience. All this has been condensed into a single accessible source that will entice both the neophyte and the veteran baker.

 

I dare say this book will take a place of pride on the cook’s shelf next to classics by Julie Sahni and Madhur Jaffrey. That’s exactly where it will go in my library.

 

Ken Albala

Professor of History and Food Writer

University of the Pacific